Travelling Tools

The first time I travelled overseas from Australia was to Japan. The next time to Greece. Both times, I knew the language to various degrees. The first country I visited where I didn't know the language was Turkey. It was difficult for me to not feel uneasy and uncertain, but after a day or two I was beginning to enjoy the challenge of communication over barriers.

The technology of the 21st century is making it easier and easier for travellers to communicate without having to study Swahili in Three Months before they leave. More and more people are taking their iPhone with the when they travel. Read here for some are some handy apps for travelling in Japan. I have not tried them, myself, though.

Holey Nishinomiya

Walking around Nishinomiya, the other day, I could not help but look down to see what manhole covers they have. (I need to find a new hobby, it seems.) Here is what I found so far.

This manhole cover seems to be the more ubiquitous in Nishinomiya, featuring Koshien Stadium, home of the Hanshin Tigers, the sake breweries of Nada and sakura (cherry blossoms).

This cute design features a frog and sakura.

Nothing really special about these, but it was interesting to see the Star of David with the character for west (西, nishi from Nishinomiya) in the middle.

The hunt for more manhole covers continues.

Wood Block Prints & Antique Books

Until a year ago, there was a two-storey secondhand bookshop in the Center-Gai shopping arcade in Sannomiya that carried a large range of ukiyoe (wood block prints) at various prices and in various conditions. I went there often to buy presents for people’s birthdays and used to enjoy poring through the ukiyoe looking for just the right one. They make ideal gifts, because are light to carry overseas—though you do need to be careful not to crush them. (Go to a 100-yen shop and buy a tube.) Since then I have searched in vain for other shops that carry old ukiyoe in Sannomiya, but to no avail. The area behind Daiei supermarket—to the west of JR Sannomiya Stn—used to have many secondhand bookshops hidden in the warren of streets, but the earthquake put most of them out of business and those that survived eventually closed down.

So, where do you go to buy original ukiyoe replicas? (Good luck in finding an original original.) By original I mean one that has not come off the printing press, but one authentically cut from a block. Before the age of the printing press, making replicas and selling them was big business—the only way to own your own Hokusai to adorn your wall. Some have been handed down a few generations and have found their way to the secondhand shops.

If you are visiting Kobe, then you will probably be passing through Osaka, or even sightseeing there. Inevitably, you will pass through the Umeda area—JR Osaka Stn, Hankyu Umeda Stn, Hanshin Umeda Stn, and Subway Umeda, Higashi-umeda and Nishi-umeda Stns. Here, you will find a few shops that will save your feet.

Under the Hankyu tracks to the north of Umeda—behind Kiddyland—is Kappa Yokocho Furushonomachi (Kappa* Alley Antique Book Market). Not only will you find secondhand bookshops here, but also shops that specialise in musical scores, musical instruments and antique (and not-so-antique) Japanese art. I have found some great pieces here, especially in the shop beside the music shop (shown on the right). The prices of some of the old books and paintings may surprise you, but if you are interested in Japanese art, this is a good place to spend a couple of hours while your travel companions are shopping in the modern meccas of Kiddyland and LOFT.

Access: 
Once you get to Umeda, ask people where Kiddyland is. If you find someone who does not know, then they are from out of town. Once you get to Kiddyland (which is below ground), keep heading above ground under the Hankyu train tracks. Another landmark to watch out for is D•D House. If you find that, then Kappa Yokocho is directly opposite under the train tracks. Likewise, if you find NU•chayamachi, it is just across the street from the main entrance.

Business Hours:
11 a.m. ~ 8 p.m. (The restaurants are open until 11 p.m.)
Closed: 3rd Wednesday in February, April, June, September and November.

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* You will see a green frog-like creature in the entrance. This is the legendary Japanese creature, the kappa.

Holey Designs

When travelling, we try to absorb as much of our surroundings as possible, looking around to the left, to the right and even up. But how often do we look down? There are exceptions. A friend took his mother to Paris. Whenever he looked over, she was looking down because she was hoping avoid stepping in dog doo. Aren’t you lucky that there is little chance of that happening in Japan? If you do look down here, you may be lucky enough to find a 10K note to pay for a night’s accommodation. (One yen is more likely, though five yen [go-en] is more auspicious due to the play on word on destiny/fate, go-en [ご縁; go prefix being honorific.]) All jesting aside, if you do not look down occassionally, you will be missing one of the local specialties of the city, town or village you are visiting—manhole covers.

I was first alerted to the distinctive designs on manhole covers in Japan by a friend's mum visiting from overseas. Rarely looking down when walking around town, I had been oblivious to one feature unique to every municipality. (Also, it is probably obvious that I'm still working for a living.) We were walking through the Kitano area of Kobe. At first, I thought she was joking when she told me to wait while she took a photo of one; it was just a manhole covers, after all. Or, so I thought. On closer inspection, I found the design consisted of famous Kobe landmarks, food, and other local symbols and features.

Manhole cover watching has become a worldwide pastime, fondly known as ‘drainspotting’. Some people not only spot them, but like rubbing them, too.

Looking at the Japan Ground Manhole Association web site, we find that of the 1,524 cities in Japan that have manhole cover designs 47% feature flora and 21% fauna. It is safe to say, though, that in all cases, the designs will boast the city’s famous features. They also vary depending on the utility. Kobe is blessed with many manhole cover designs, some of which are featured below. (More will be posted as I find them—some are illusive, ye ken?)

For more information about the history of manhole covers in Japan, read the article on The Japan Times web site.

Tthe Kitano weathercock, Rokko cable car, Kobe Festival fireworks, Kobe Wine, Kobe Tower, seagulls, parfaits, and other motifs.

Okamoto has its own designs.

Some simple designs featuring the Kobe city symbol.

Meriken Park (top left), Kitano weathercock (centre), the port (top right), street lamps seen at Meriken Park (bottom right) and Customs House (bottom left).

Sannomiya cityscape with the mountains in the background and the sea in the foreground. Note the reflection of the name, Kobe, in the water.

The mountains of Rokko.

Kobe Tower, the port, the Port Island Bridge.

Look down occasionally. It would be such a shame to miss these works of art under your feet.

[If you see manhole cover designs not featured here, please send in photos and I'll put it up with full credit.

Japanese Souvenirs for All Seasons

Looking for the perfect Japanese gift or souvenir can be hard, because the shops that do carry traditional-like Japanese products are hard to find. Hukujungo (福順号), east of JR Sannomiya Stn (in the building to the east of Daiei), not only deals in traditional Japanese merchandise, but its display changes with the seasons. 

From January through early March, they have a large selection of quality hina dolls on display for Girl’s Day (March 3rd). The price tags may bend your credit card so far it would break, but they do stock smaller, lower quality dolls, too. On the heels of Girl’s Day is Children’s Day (formerly known as Boy’s Day), and the display changes to miniature full samurai regalia, helmets and warrior boy dolls in early March. Once again, mind your credit card doesn't snap. 

As summer approaches and everyone is spending more time outdoors picnicking and barbequing, Hukujungo sells a wide variety of fireworks and Japanese uchiwa fans (at reasonable prices) from June through September. The array of fireworks readily available is mindboggling for an Australian like myself, because fireworks are banned there. One reason for Australians to visit Japan in summer.  (Note: Most parks, beaches, rivers and other public places restrict the use of fireworks to 9 or 10 p.m., and some locations restrict the use of rocket fireworks.)

Hit October, and everyone begins wondering where the year went.  The display of hagoita and other items displayed at New Year in Japan fill the shelves from late October. Soon after New Year’s Day, the display reverts to the hina dolls and the cycle begins again.

I found the clerk, who speaks English well, to be very friendly and willing to explain the various aspects of the goods on display--their meaning, use and significance. Of course, window shopping is no problem. Go in a browse and learn a bit about Japanese culture while you are there. Some dolls are displayed at the back of the shop year round. You may be able to pick up an off-season bargain, like I did in Matsuyamachi (Osaka’s doll district) many years back.

Web site (http://www.hukujungo.com/)

Business Hours:

10 a.m. ~ 7 p.m. Closed Thursday (Not closed during the busy seasons January~April, July~August, but closed for most of May and October.)

Address: 5-3 Kumoidori, Chuo-ku, Kobe

Phone: 078-221-1992

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Okamoto for Plum Blossoms

梅は岡本 (Okamoto for plum blossoms)

桜は吉野 (Yoshino for cherry blossoms)

みかんは紀の国 (Kinokuni for mikan)

栗丹波 (Tanba for chestnuts)

[a popular Edo Period song]

By mid-February, everyone is tired of the bleak winter weather and pining for spring and warmer weather. A visit to Okamoto Bairin (岡本梅林) to view the plum blossoms is guaranteed to lift your spirits and give you the energy to see out the winter. They are in bloom from approximately mid-February to early March.

The origin of the plum glove in Okamoto is unknown, but the old names for the Okamoto 6-chome and 7-chome neighbourhoods were Bairin (梅林: plum grove) and Umegaya (梅ヶ谷: plum valley). Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537-1598), who unified Japan, is said to have relaxed at Okamoto Bairin. References were made to flower viewing in Okamoto in various books printed in the Edo period, including the plate shown above from the Illustrated Famous Locations in Settsu (摂津名所図会). The head of the Amagasaki Clan, which held control of the Okamoto area at the time, would visit with a large number of samurai every year when the flowers were in bloom. During the Meiji Era, the trains passing two kilometres south of the grove on what is now the JR line would briefly stop below the grove to allow the passengers to enjoy the view of the plums.

梅は岡本 (Okamoto for plum blossoms)

桜は生田  (Ikuta for cherry blossoms)

松のよいのが湊川 (Minatogawa for good pines)

[a popular ditty sung by the people of Hyogo during the Edo Period]

Alas, all three locations mentioned here have disappeared.

Landslides buried most of the Okamoto plum grove during the Great Hanshin Floods of 1938. What remained was destroyed by air bombing during WWII. The original location is now an apartment complex, which is soon to be rebuilt into a luxury apartment complex. The stables of Ikuta Shrine that were famous for cherry blossoms are now Ikuta Road. And, the levee of Minato River is now Shinkaichi Road.

Okamoto Bairin—at its current location in Okamoto 6-chome—was opened as Okamoto Park (岡本公園) through the efforts of locals in 1982 with a total of 130 trees of 26 varieties of plums, a pagoda and a pond. Plans to expand the park to the east in the near future are under consideration.

For those who have still not had their fill of plum blossoms, a walk up and across Tenjo River (天上川), then follow the path up Mt Hokura (保久良山) to enjoy the yamamomo variety of plum blossoms in the shrine grounds, which are said to be over 100 years old.

As you approach Hokura Shrine (保久良神社) from the west, you will find another plum grove which opened in 1975. Just behind the plum grove are a few picnic benches for you to enjoy your bento or just take a break. Beware, though, of the wild boars. They are attracted to the sound of plastic bags thinking they contain food, which in your case they most probably do. Make no sudden moves. Ignore them, and they’ll ignore you.

Even though the entrance to the shrine offers a stunning view of Higashinada Ward across Osaka Bay to Wakayama and Kansai Airport in the winter months, an even more spectacular view of the Hanshin area awaits the energetic all year round about ten minutes up the trail from the picnic area.

You can return via Tenjo River, or take the eastern (main) approach to the shrine and turn right before or after you cross the Hankyu train line to return to the Settsumotoyama/Okamoto area (approximately 30 mins).

Access: 

20 minutes walk from JR Settsumotoyama Stn, 15 minutes from Hankyu Okamoto Stn. From the main Okamoto shopping area, follow the pink banners to the west, cross Tenjo River and follow it north. If you reach Yahata Shrine (八幡神社), you have gone too far. Go back one block and turn right. Or just follow everyone else.

View Higashinada in a larger map