A Touch of Aromatic Spices

Istanbul Konak was easy to find once I walked down the stairs from ground level. The blue and white İznik-tiled wall at the end of the passage hinted at the exotic experience awaiting. On turning the corner from the entrance, I felt I was back in Cappadocia, in one of the underground catacombs. Once inside, I enjoyed spotting the different parts of Turkey represented in the decor: traditional Turkey (kilim, cushions and a low table), rural Turkey (stone wall), modern Turkey accented with various (non-Turkish) paintings, and mosques (arches and cupola dome). Istanbul Konak was established in 1999 as a small restaurant at a time when Kansai had few Turkish restaurants and was expanded in 2003.

As an aperitif before a Turkish meal, I always enjoy rakı, which Japanese often say tastes like medicine or toothpaste. This anis-flavoured spirit fascinates people by clouding when mixed with water. The opaqueness shows how pure the rakı is; the less opaque, more water used in the distilling process. Wanting more Japanese to enjoy rakı, owner/chef Riza Alkoc concocted a cocktail he named after the Mediterranean, Akdeniz, because its colour reminded him of the colours of the sea, especially when held up to the light. Akdeniz has a light, and slightly sweet and sour taste that prepares your taste buds for the awaiting feast.

A visit to a Turkish restaurant starts with the standard fare: cacık (yoghurt, cucumber and garlic dip), humus, baba ghanouj (eggplant dip), kebab and kofte meatballs. But trying the interesting dishes Alkoc offers give you a new perspective on Turkish cuisine. One surprise was the ravioli-like manti, which are stuffed with seasoned ground meat and topped with a garlic-yogurt sauce. Another was İstim Kebabı—eggplant wrapped around savory spiced meat and vegetables. Alkoc also recommends the Haydari yoghurt dip with garlic, and stuffed blue mussels. Not listed on the menu, which has English explanations, are the Specials of the Day: dolma (various stuffed vegetables), stews or casseroles that are guaranteed to warm you on a chilly day.

Turkish cuisine essentially uses salt as the main seasoning, and spices enhance the aroma. Despite certain ingredients being difficulty to obtain in Japan, Alkoc—who also runs the family restaurant business in Istanbul—and his Turkish cooks make every effort to serve authentic dishes by importing these ingredients direct from Turkey. He also grows spring onions, mint, parsley and other herbs for use in his dishes, because he finds the flavour is lacking when using commercially grown produce.

For dessert, I ordered mildly-sweet Kazandibi milk pudding, made with shredded chicken, and a Turkish coffee; the perfect end to a delicious meal that took me back to Turkey. Before you leave home, don’t forget to print the coupons available on the Japanese and English web pages. If you dine at Istanbul Konak on Friday and Saturday night, your experience will be enhanced by the oriental dance show featuring Tania Luiz.

And, for those who cannot come to Osaka to enjoy an evening in Turkey, Istanbul Konak delivers their dishes anywhere in Japan via their online delicatessen, Konak Deli 1. (All major credit cards accepted. Orders over 5,000 yen are delivered free.) Currently, the deli offers a taster special (e.g., chicken kebab, the chickpea stew, prawn and vegetable casserole, the chicken and vegetable casserole, and manti) with soup and rice or Turkish bread for 1,600-1,850 yen (free delivery). Also on special is a party set of nine dishes (3-4 people) for 3,980 yen with free delivery.

Istanbul Konak
Address: B1F, Sankyo Yotsubashi Bldg. 1-11-1 Minami Horie, Nishi-ku, Osaka 550-0015
Access: Subway Yotsubashi Stn Exit #5
Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30-15:00; Sat., Sun., Pub. Hol. 12:00-15:00
Dinner: 17:30-22:30
Phone: 06-6534-7277
E-mail: merhaba@istanbulkonak.com
URL: http://www.istanbulkonak.com (Japanese & English)

Konak Deli I (Japanese only)
URL: http://www.istanbulkonak-deli1.com/
E-mail: shopmaster@istanbulkonak-deli1.com

Text: George Bourdaniotis. Originally published in Kansai Scene #128, January 2011.

Food Fit for a Thai King

Chedi Luang, Umeda and Kitahorie, Osaka

When Chedi Luang opened, 10 years ago, Thai restaurants in Osaka only served Bangkok-style food. “We filled that gap,” said supervisor, Chieko Suzumoto. “Bangkok cuisine is food-stall based, whereas Chiang Mai cuisine is the royal, restaurant-style Khantoke. Neighbouring countries – Laos, Myanmar and China – have an interesting influence on the regional cuisine.” Chiang Mai, located 700 km north of Bangkok, was the capital of the Lanna Thai kingdom in the 14th century and is the cultural centre of Thailand, like Kyoto is to Japan. Elaborate, Lanna Thai-traditional Khantoke meals are served to guests at ceremonies and celebrations on khantoke pedestal trays used as tables, similar in style to Japan’s traditional kaiseki cuisine.

I was first served Nanprik Wannii, a Khantoke-style platter of cucumber, carrots, broccoli, beans and other fresh vegetables eaten with a hot, spicy, tangy sauce (taste before dipping or you will be breathing fire) and a mild, nut sauce. A friend recommended I try the Kung Nangfaoa Chae Nampla. The raw tiger prawns in nampla fish sauce, garlic, chilli and mint looked harmless until I put one in my mouth. Said friend’s head may have “exploded with delight”, but for me it was instant bliss. The remainder on the plate disappeared quickly. Your mouth will be tingling from the spices, so cleanse your palate before you eat on with a glass of Thai wine, Thai beer – Singha and Chang – or tea. I also tried another Chiang Mai specialty, Kao Soi Gai, a Laos-style chicken curry over flat noodles, topped with crispy noodles piled like the stupor for which the restaurant is named, Wat Chedi Luang. Usually yellow, the noodles are green and red for Chedi Luang’s 10th anniversary. This curry is not hot or runny like Thai curries, so season it to taste with lemon, onion, cabbage pickles and chili oil. A popular dish with women is Puu Nim Pad Pong Karii, soft-shell crab stir fried with egg and curry. Of course, Chedi Luang offers popular Thai dishes, too. Their tom yum kung is made with menam sweet river prawns, which have long legs and make a delicious broth.

“Chiang Mai cuisine is healthy, like herbal medicine. It uses ginger that warms the body in winter, peppers, garlic and lemon grass that is good for digestion,” said Suzumoto. “Our Thai chefs at both branches are particular about the spices they use, so we import chilli, coconuts, prawns, curry base and other ingredients direct from Chiang Mai to serve our guests fresh, authentic food. Last year’s floods did affect supply, but it is now back to normal.”

Opened in March 2011, the furniture and the gold interior at the Herbis ENT branch makes you feel royal. The tableware and the objects incorporate designs and patterns for which Chiang Mai is famous. The view of the Umeda Sky Building at night adds to the feeling of occasion, ideal for special occasions, dates or if you want to splurge. Both branches offer a 90-minute lunch buffet serving 15 dishes on weekdays and 20 on weekends and public holidays. They also offer a one-hour all-you-can-drink Heineken Extra Cold beer option for an extra 998 yen. The chefs can adjust the dishes spiciness and to accommodate pescatarians.

Chedi Luang
(English menu and English-speaking staff)

Herbis ENT Branch
Address: Herbis ENT 5F, 2-2-22 Umeda, Kita-ku, Osaka
Access: Umeda Stns (JR, Hankyu, Hanshin, Subway)
Weekdays: 11:30–15.00 (lunch, last order 14:30), 17:30–23:00 (dinner, last order 22.30)
Weekends, Public Holidays: 11:30–16.00 (lunch, last order 15:30), 17:00–23:00 (dinner, last order 22.30)
Closed: when Herbis ENT is closed.
Reservations: 06-6344-6116

Kitahorie Main Branch
Address: 1-17-11 Kitahorie, Nishi-ku, Osaka
Access: Subway Nishi-ohashi Stn 1 minute walk, Subway Yotsubashi Stn 4 minute walk
Weekdays: 12:00–15.00 (lunch, last order 14:30), 17:30–23:00 (dinner, last order 22.30)
Weekends, Public Holidays: 12:00–16.00 (lunch, last order 15:30), 17:00–23:00 (dinner, last order 22.30)
Closed: Monday lunch (open when Monday is a public holiday)
Reservations: 06-6535-1515

Text: George Bourdaniotis, Photos: Courtesy of Chedi Luang. Originally published in Kansai Scene #141, February 2012.

Counting My Blessings - 常に感謝を心に

同業者や異業種の懇親会に参加する内に、友達や仕事仲間、世間が広がります。その時は将来どんな事になるか想像できません。goodspeedとの出会いもその一つ。 楽しい仕事を一緒にしてきたからこそ、先月の旅番組、 CNNGoの現地コーディネートの急な話がきた時、きっと やり遂げられると思いました。短期間でゲスト選定やス ケジュール調整、ロケハン...皆様のお陰でいい仕事がで きました。常に周りに感謝していますが、今回は特に感 謝しています。ありがとうございました! この取材の模様は今月中旬放送される予定です。 お楽しみに!

I attend many professional and business networking events. Over time, I make new friends and business partners, and my network grows. When we meet, neither of us knows what the future holds. Meeting Daisuke at goodspeed was no different. We have worked on some interesting projects together since we met, so when I was contacted to be fixer for the CNN travel program, CNNGo, I did not hesitate to bring Daisuke on board. In the very brief time leading up to the shoot, we searched for guests to appear on the show, slapped together a filming schedule, went location scouting,... Thanks to everyone's cooperation, we got the job done. I always count my blessings, but this time I cannot express how grateful I am for everyone's support. Thank you! I hope readers catch the finished product on CNN, this month.

The Japanese version first appeared in the March 2012 issue of the goodspeed monthly newsletter. 日本語バージョンはグッドスピードレター2012年3月号に掲載されました。 CNN International will first air CNNGo Rebuilding Japan! Rediscovering the Beauty of Japan (Kyoto/Osaka) on March 14 and repeat it in the following weeks. After its premiere, it will be available for viewing on the CNNGo web site. 本番組は3月14日から放送されます。その後、CNNGoホームページでご覧ください。

Leading Kansai Development for 102 years

Newly arrived visitors to Osaka from abroad soon remember the name Hankyu. The name is seen everywhere in Umeda. Hankyu even gave Umeda its name.  Originally a swamp, Hankyu Railway’s predecessor bought the area, filled it in (umeru, in Japanese) and called it Umeda, using the characters for fill and field (埋田). The first character was later changed to the more romantic plum (梅). The area was subsequently developed by Hankyu, with hotels, department stores and shopping complexes in the area bearing the Hankyu name, today.

Established in 1907 by Kobayashi Ichizo, Mino-o Arima Electric Tramway actually began operations with two lines—the Takarazuka and Mino-o lines—on March 10, 1910. In 1918, the company was renamed Hanshin Kyuko Railway, from which the current name Hankyu was derived in 1973. The Kobe Line, which opened in 1920 and was extended to Sannomiya in 1936, was a direct rival to Hanshin Railway, which also operated between Osaka and Kobe. The rivalry continued until Hankyu acquired Hanshin in October 2006 to create Hankyu Hanshin Holdings, Inc.

Hankyu briefly merged with Keihan Electric Railway, another private railway in 1943. When Keihan spilt away in 1949, Hankyu retained what today are the Kyoto, the Senri and the Arashiyama lines. It was the first railway company in Japan to install automatic ticket machines at Kita-senri Station in 1967.

To ensure the company’s prosperity, Kobayashi developed the real estate along its lines. In particular, he established the Takarazuka Revue and the Takarazuka Family Land amusement park, which closed in 2003, to draw passengers for the Takarazuka Line. Today, the real estate along most of the Hankyu lines has a prestigious image, with the real estate north of the Kobe Line between Nishinomiya-Kitaguchi and Rokko Stations being one of the most expensive areas in the Kansai.

Text and photos by George Bourdaniotis. Originally published in Kansai Scene #120, May 2010 as "Leading Kansai development for 100 years".

Wood Block Prints & Antique Books

Until a year ago, there was a two-storey secondhand bookshop in the Center-Gai shopping arcade in Sannomiya that carried a large range of ukiyoe (wood block prints) at various prices and in various conditions. I went there often to buy presents for people’s birthdays and used to enjoy poring through the ukiyoe looking for just the right one. They make ideal gifts, because are light to carry overseas—though you do need to be careful not to crush them. (Go to a 100-yen shop and buy a tube.) Since then I have searched in vain for other shops that carry old ukiyoe in Sannomiya, but to no avail. The area behind Daiei supermarket—to the west of JR Sannomiya Stn—used to have many secondhand bookshops hidden in the warren of streets, but the earthquake put most of them out of business and those that survived eventually closed down.

So, where do you go to buy original ukiyoe replicas? (Good luck in finding an original original.) By original I mean one that has not come off the printing press, but one authentically cut from a block. Before the age of the printing press, making replicas and selling them was big business—the only way to own your own Hokusai to adorn your wall. Some have been handed down a few generations and have found their way to the secondhand shops.

If you are visiting Kobe, then you will probably be passing through Osaka, or even sightseeing there. Inevitably, you will pass through the Umeda area—JR Osaka Stn, Hankyu Umeda Stn, Hanshin Umeda Stn, and Subway Umeda, Higashi-umeda and Nishi-umeda Stns. Here, you will find a few shops that will save your feet.

Under the Hankyu tracks to the north of Umeda—behind Kiddyland—is Kappa Yokocho Furushonomachi (Kappa* Alley Antique Book Market). Not only will you find secondhand bookshops here, but also shops that specialise in musical scores, musical instruments and antique (and not-so-antique) Japanese art. I have found some great pieces here, especially in the shop beside the music shop (shown on the right). The prices of some of the old books and paintings may surprise you, but if you are interested in Japanese art, this is a good place to spend a couple of hours while your travel companions are shopping in the modern meccas of Kiddyland and LOFT.

Access: 
Once you get to Umeda, ask people where Kiddyland is. If you find someone who does not know, then they are from out of town. Once you get to Kiddyland (which is below ground), keep heading above ground under the Hankyu train tracks. Another landmark to watch out for is D•D House. If you find that, then Kappa Yokocho is directly opposite under the train tracks. Likewise, if you find NU•chayamachi, it is just across the street from the main entrance.

Business Hours:
11 a.m. ~ 8 p.m. (The restaurants are open until 11 p.m.)
Closed: 3rd Wednesday in February, April, June, September and November.

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* You will see a green frog-like creature in the entrance. This is the legendary Japanese creature, the kappa.