Sakura, Sakura

I often wonder when the Japanese obsession with cherry blossoms (sakura) began. From mid-March, most of Japan is tinged with various shades of pink until mid-April, depending on the variety of cherry blossom and the location. Cherry blossom trees in full bloom are a beautiful sight, and it is one that never ceases to put a smile on my face and make me feel good. I have fond memories of my morning commute to Osaka with the trees in full bloom on either side of the train tracks for a few kilometres—a great start to the day. 

By this time of year, everyone has had enough of the cold weather. The midday temperatures are slowly becoming warmer. Everyone wants to escape the stuffy confines of their home or office. What better way to welcome the beginning of spring than sitting under the cherry blossom trees, having a good time with friends. Not that we need an excuse to party, but any excuse is a good excuse, right?

The word hanami—literally, flower viewing—is on everyone’s lips as soon as reports of the first blossom break. Even though the word hana means flower or flowers, I was soon corrected when I used the term to refer to plum blossom viewing. Hanami is only used to refer to sakura viewing parties. 

Shown in the photo below is a typical hanami picnic. The blue sheet is ubiquitous, though sometimes green. Hanami is not hanami without it, though some people do improvise with a newspaper or a plastic bag when hanami-ing on a whim. When I first came to Japan, the karaoke machine was also a necessary accessory for hanami. Many foreigners would have stories about being dragged into a group and eventually made to sing ‘My Way’. But with the proliferation of karaoke boxes, karaoke machines are not seen at hanami as often, today.

One of the best locations in the Hanshin area to relax and enjoy the flowers over a couple of drinks and good conversation is along the banks of Shukugawa in Nishinomiya. It is one of the most famous hanami locations in the country. And, the crowds prove it. Nishinomiya even features sakura on its manhole covers. Nearby Ashiyagawa is also a good location, but the river offers fewer places to sit and relax.

Traditionally, hanami and sake go hand in hand, but nowadays anything goes. If you arrive on Hankyu, shop at the Daiei supermarket across the street to the south of the station to save you lugging food and beverages. Various stalls are set up along the east bank of Shukugawa selling food and drinks (at inflated prices, as you would expect).

It usually rains, this time of year, and for hanami revellers, the rain is the enemy. Not only for the obvious reason—not that rain has ever stopped my friends and me from finding a covered spot at our selected hanami location to continue as planned—but also because the rain makes the blossoms fall sooner. Thus, shortening the hanami season. (It also takes the fun out of walking through the blossom rain.) Shukugawa has few covered areas, but I have seen some creative people sitting in the rain enjoying a less crowded and less noisy hanami.

If you are planning on going hanami-ing at night when the trees are in full bloom, or on a weekend, you may have to send someone ahead as bashotori (claim staker). I have used this opportunity in the past to enjoy the blossoms alone before everyone turns up and the blossoms are soon forgotten as drinks and conversations flow. 

Access:

Hankyu Shukugawa Stn is located above the river. From JR Sakura-shukugawa Stn, turn right after exiting the station to find the river.

Okamoto for Plum Blossoms

梅は岡本 (Okamoto for plum blossoms)

桜は吉野 (Yoshino for cherry blossoms)

みかんは紀の国 (Kinokuni for mikan)

栗丹波 (Tanba for chestnuts)

[a popular Edo Period song]

By mid-February, everyone is tired of the bleak winter weather and pining for spring and warmer weather. A visit to Okamoto Bairin (岡本梅林) to view the plum blossoms is guaranteed to lift your spirits and give you the energy to see out the winter. They are in bloom from approximately mid-February to early March.

The origin of the plum glove in Okamoto is unknown, but the old names for the Okamoto 6-chome and 7-chome neighbourhoods were Bairin (梅林: plum grove) and Umegaya (梅ヶ谷: plum valley). Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537-1598), who unified Japan, is said to have relaxed at Okamoto Bairin. References were made to flower viewing in Okamoto in various books printed in the Edo period, including the plate shown above from the Illustrated Famous Locations in Settsu (摂津名所図会). The head of the Amagasaki Clan, which held control of the Okamoto area at the time, would visit with a large number of samurai every year when the flowers were in bloom. During the Meiji Era, the trains passing two kilometres south of the grove on what is now the JR line would briefly stop below the grove to allow the passengers to enjoy the view of the plums.

梅は岡本 (Okamoto for plum blossoms)

桜は生田  (Ikuta for cherry blossoms)

松のよいのが湊川 (Minatogawa for good pines)

[a popular ditty sung by the people of Hyogo during the Edo Period]

Alas, all three locations mentioned here have disappeared.

Landslides buried most of the Okamoto plum grove during the Great Hanshin Floods of 1938. What remained was destroyed by air bombing during WWII. The original location is now an apartment complex, which is soon to be rebuilt into a luxury apartment complex. The stables of Ikuta Shrine that were famous for cherry blossoms are now Ikuta Road. And, the levee of Minato River is now Shinkaichi Road.

Okamoto Bairin—at its current location in Okamoto 6-chome—was opened as Okamoto Park (岡本公園) through the efforts of locals in 1982 with a total of 130 trees of 26 varieties of plums, a pagoda and a pond. Plans to expand the park to the east in the near future are under consideration.

For those who have still not had their fill of plum blossoms, a walk up and across Tenjo River (天上川), then follow the path up Mt Hokura (保久良山) to enjoy the yamamomo variety of plum blossoms in the shrine grounds, which are said to be over 100 years old.

As you approach Hokura Shrine (保久良神社) from the west, you will find another plum grove which opened in 1975. Just behind the plum grove are a few picnic benches for you to enjoy your bento or just take a break. Beware, though, of the wild boars. They are attracted to the sound of plastic bags thinking they contain food, which in your case they most probably do. Make no sudden moves. Ignore them, and they’ll ignore you.

Even though the entrance to the shrine offers a stunning view of Higashinada Ward across Osaka Bay to Wakayama and Kansai Airport in the winter months, an even more spectacular view of the Hanshin area awaits the energetic all year round about ten minutes up the trail from the picnic area.

You can return via Tenjo River, or take the eastern (main) approach to the shrine and turn right before or after you cross the Hankyu train line to return to the Settsumotoyama/Okamoto area (approximately 30 mins).

Access: 

20 minutes walk from JR Settsumotoyama Stn, 15 minutes from Hankyu Okamoto Stn. From the main Okamoto shopping area, follow the pink banners to the west, cross Tenjo River and follow it north. If you reach Yahata Shrine (八幡神社), you have gone too far. Go back one block and turn right. Or just follow everyone else.

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