Gozan-no-okuribi: Bonfire viewing in Kyoto

The Japanese hold ceremonies at the end of Obon, the period in late summer during which the spirits of their ancestors are believed to visit this world, to ensure the safe return of these spirits to the spirit world. Gozan-no-okuribi, annually held on August 16th in Kyoto, is one such ceremony that--as the name indicates--sends off the spirits with large bonfires in traditional shapes on five mountains: those shapes are dai (the kanji for 'large'), myo and ho (kanji meaning 'wondrous dharma'), a boat, a torii shrine gate, and hidari-dai (left 'large'). The origins of this event--commonly known as Daimonji after the dai bonfire--are obscure, but it is widely thought to have begun between the 14th and 16th centuries.

Worshippers writing their gomagi slats

Wooden gomagi slats, which are burned in the bonfires, are sold from the 15th until 2 p.m. on the day of the event at the entrances of Kinkakuji, Ginkakuji and other temples. Once people write their ancestors' names, prayers or wishes on them, the gomagi are carried up the mountains to be laid on the bonfires. I wanted to actively participate in the festival, so I visited Ginkakuji and bought two gomagi slats that were destined for the daimonji bonfire on Mt Nyoigatake behind the temple.

Ginkakuji, which is charming and captivating, is one of my favourite temples. After a stroll through the gardens, I turned to the mission at hand--searching for a prime viewing spot. Many hotels and other establishments guarantee you a view of the bonfires for a price. However, I like enjoying festivals among the crowds, and finding a location from where to view the bonfires is, apparently, a challenge.

A torii on Imadegawa-dori marks the entrance to Yoshidayama, one of the recommended locations to view the bonfires. At the lookout, I found people had already staked their viewing spots with tripods. To my disappointment, daimonji, which appears at an angle, was the only bonfire visible from here, but the view was spectacular. I saw movement around the pyres on which wheat straw, pine needles and the gomogi slats--mine included--would be laid. A gentleman here mentioned that Kamogawa river was the best location to view daimonji face on. The search continues. (If you decide to view daimonji from Yoshidayama, take a torch.)

Camera ready on Yoshidayama facing daimonji in the distance

Kamo-ohashi bridge over the junction of Takanogawa and Kamogawa rivers offers the perfect view of daimonji. I crossed the stepping stones on the river, in which people off all ages were playing, to the spit. Considering the view, I was not surprised to see the choice picnic spots already staked out with blue plastic sheets. The gentleman at Yoshidayama was right.

I continued along the west bank of Kamogawa with my map open hoping to find the spot that the locals would want to keep a secret. Even though daimonji was clearly visible, trees and buildings obstructed the other bonfires, especially, at river level. I was still hopeful, though, that I would find a good location to view as many of the bonfires, as possible.

I noticed less people between Aoibashi and Izumojibashi bridges and felt nervous. I asked an elderly couple preparing for the arrival of their friends and neighbours for advice on the best vantage point. Myo-ho would not be visible due to the buildings obstructing the view from here, and only the stern of the ship would be visible from Izumojibashi. The wife explained how, centuries ago, each household lit their own bonfire, but the authorities decided to burn the bonfires collectively in mountain clearings due to the fire hazard. As I took my leave, I asked about the absence of the ubiquitous food stalls found at all festivals in Japan and was disappointed to hear that a city ordinance enacted in recent years banned the stalls during Gozan-no-okuribi.

I continued along the river further north to Kitaojibashi, but still no luck. As the couple suggested, the bonfires are best viewed from a higher location.

Here, I took a bus to Funaokayama, which is directly west of Kitaojibashi along Kitaoji-dori, resolute that I would stay there no matter what the view. The climb was steeper than Yoshidayama--promising. At the lookout, I was greeted by the sight of many unattended plastic sheets staking claims. With map in hand, I wandered among the plastic sheets, lining up the mountains, and found a small spot from which I had a clear view of daimonji, myo and hidari-daimonji, and a partial view of ho and the boat. Mission accomplished with two hours to spare. I spread a newspaper, anchored it with rocks and visited the local convenience shop.

To pass the time, I talked with the people around me, and I found that most--like myself--were not locals. Some were from cities as far as Tokyo, and others from Taiwan and Sweden. Apparently, the locals choose to stay home to watch the event on TV.

The practice run at hidari-daimonji caused a minor stir. People took photos and adjusted their camera settings ready for the main event. Everyone stood in anticipation minutes before the lighting of daimonji, the first bonfire. The lookout was becoming so crowded that it felt like being on a peak-hour train.

Daimonji

When daimonji was lit at eight o'clock, the lookout roared with excitement, drowning out the cicadas. I turned to find a sea of arms stretching to the stars with cameras in hand taking the shots of the bonfire. Ten minutes later, myo and ho were lit. Everyone shuffled to face them, raising their mobiles and cameras into the air, again. Despite the shapes of the bonfires being distorted from here, they were spectacular, nonetheless. My disappointment at only the top of the boat sail being visible was soon forgotten at the sight of hidari-daimonji burning directly behind us. Taking good shots was difficult considering the distance, but I was still impressed with my photos.

Myo-ho

Caught up in the excitement, I had forgotten that my gomagi were blazing in the distance. I paused from my photo-taking frenzy and turned to watch daimonji burn. I wondered where exactly they were placed. I closed my eyes and hoped that my prayers would be heard as the smoke carried them up into the heavens.

Hidari-daimonji

The article originally appeared on the Official Kyoto Travel Guide web site in August 2011. (The photos on this page were taken by George Bourdaniotis and differ to the official photos that accompanied the original article.)

[September 15, 2014] I have just finished working on an episode of Core Kyoto on this ceremony to air September 18 and 19 on NHK World.

トレイン・クルーズ / Train Cruise

先日国際放送の新番組に台本監修として列車旅の番組に参画させていただきました。番組レポーター兼ね旅人は熊本市から鹿児島市まで機関車をはじめ電車を3台乗車しました。旅先はついで、列車旅その物を楽しむのは主旨でした。スローフードがありますが、これは私自身が最近求めているスロー・トラベルです。台本の翻訳中、仮編集された映像を何回も見ているだけで、正直に言って辛かったです。旅人は地元の料理味わえる駅弁や地ビール、米焼酎が堪能できたり、他の乗客や駅駅員、地元の方とコミュニケーションを取ったり、本当の旅の楽しみ、土地柄の魅力を肌で感じました。

Recently I had the opportunity to work on the pilot episode of a new NHK World train travel program as script adviser. The program’s traveller, Nick Szasz, rode a steam train and two other trains from Kumamoto to Kagoshima in Kyushu. The aim of the program was enjoying the journey, not just the destinations. You have slow food, and you have slow travel. The latter is something I have been enjoying myself, lately. When translating the script I watched the rough cut DVD numerous times. That sure is a tough job when you consider Szasz is enjoying all the local cuisine, micro-beers, sake and shochu (Japanese vodka). I longed to go on a long train trip myself after watching him talk with other travellers, railway employees and the locals.

The Japanese version first appeared in the June 2013 issue of the goodspeed monthly newsletter.
日本語バージョンはグッドスピードレター2013年6月号に掲載されました。

Footnote: [January 2014] I again had the opportunity to work as script adviser to the fourth episode of Train Cruise "A Fall Trip from Kyoto to the Japan Sea" to air on NHK World, February 1, 2014.

Murakami: City of Salmon and Sake / 恵みの川・伝統の鮭料理を味わう～新潟

Food is a national pastime in Japan and for good reason. No matter where you go, each village, city, or region will have local cuisine made with local produce, so traveling in Japan is fun. As a translator I often get jobs where I must describe food in subtle detail, so you can call me a desktop traveller. I often wonder if my clients would pay me to sample the fare. So I did not hesitate when I was asked by NHK World to go to Murakami for their program, Journeys in Japan, to taste the local salmon cuisine and sake. The variety of salmon cookery was amazing.

(back) Deep-fried gills, stewed brow, smoked soft roe
(centre) Deep-fried skin, stewed flesh, clear broth with roe skin
(front) Stewed backbone, roe marinated in soy sauce

旅をする時、日本人にとって食事が大事です。地元の味や珍味を堪能したいのです。自分でも日本のあっちこっちに旅する程、大事にしていることがよく分かります。どの地方へ行っても美味しい物が待っています。普段仕事している中、料理の説明等を英訳する仕事もあります。細かい味まで英語で表現をしないとだめですが、食べたことがないのにどう上手く表現するか毎回悩まされます。先方に頼みましたら、行かせていただくかなとよく思います。しかし実際は無理です。だからこそ、今回NHK国際放送のディレクターから新潟県の村上市に行かない？との誘いを聞いた時、思わず「行く」と即答しました。村上市と言えば、鮭。村上市は鮭の一人あたり消費量が日本トップクラスだそうです。「塩引き鮭」や「酒浸し」など実に100種類の鮭料理があることは自慢です。尾以外全部料理に使うのがびっくりしました。老舗料亭から地元民の通う総菜店まで、まさに鮭三昧で堪能できました。

The Murakami episode of Journeys in Japan will be broadcast on NHK World on January 28, 2014, UTC. 
本番組「恵みの川・伝統の鮭料理を味わう～新潟」は2014年1月30日午前3時にNHK BS1にて放送されます。

A Feeling for the New Year / 新年の気分を

Happy New Year! How did everyone end off 2013? I injured myself while in Niigata in early December on a shoot for NHK World’s Journeys in Japan (to be aired January 28th), so I decided to stay home on New Year’s Eve and have a quiet one. I received a translation job on the 28th to be submitted after the New Year break, so it was probably just as well that I had no major plans for the break. At the end of the year, I did an interesting rush translation project and had good news on the work front, so I was certainly in a good mood to greet 2014. I plan on having fun with my work in the coming year. Bring it on! 

明けましておめでとうございます！皆さんはどんなお気持ちで新年を迎えたでしょうか。私は12月初旬に出張先の新潟でちょっとした怪我しましたので、楽しい事を控えてじっと家で大人しく過ごすことにしました。年明け納期の翻訳原稿が28日に届いたし、ちょうど良かったかもしれませんが、年末にいいお知らせがあって、更に面白くてなかなか当たらない仕事があって、お陰で機嫌良く仕事をしながら、新年を迎えることができました。本年も楽しく仕事しようと思っています。どうぞよろしくお願いいたします。

Photo translation: If you can express gratitude/indebtedness to those around you, you will never be lonely in life.
(Taken outside a Buddhist temple in Murakami, Niigata, in early December 2013. 写真は13年12月上旬に新潟県村上市にあるお寺の前でロケ中に撮影。)

The Japanese version first appeared in the January 2014 issue of the goodspeed monthly newsletter.
日本語バージョンはグッドスピードレター2014年1月号に掲載されました。

NHK国際放送視聴者が投票2013 / NHK World Viewer's Choice 2013

NHK World Viewers' Choice 2013

今年監修として務めたNHK国際放送の番組の2本はViewers' Choice* 2013（60本の番組）に選ばれました。結果はCore Kyoto「懐石料理」編はGroup Bの3位、Train Cruise「百年鉄道 ～九州の旅～」（パイロット版）はGroup Fの1位になりました！

Viewers' Choice 2013全体的では、Train Cruiseは25年度の新番組の中では1位で、全体6位でした。2013年の最後にいいプレゼントをいただきました。ありがとうございます！Train Cruise「京都」編が1月末放送予定です。年明けに作業を頑張ります！
 * 厳選された番組にHP上で視聴者が投票する。 

Two of the NHK World programs I worked on this year as script advisor were selected for the 60 programs listed in Viewers' Choice 2013. The result: Core Kyoto "Kaiseki-ryori" came 3rd in Group B and Train Cruise "A Century-Old Railway in Kyushu" (pilot) came 1st in Group F!

Overall, Train Cruise came out as the No. 1 viewers' choice for new programs this year, and No. 6 overall! Now, that's a nice way to end the year. Thank you. Train Cruise Episode 4 "Kyoto" is slated for airing in late January. This is just the right motivation I need when working on the script in early January.

緊張感 - Nervousness

 新年度早々新しい企画がスタート。今回はNHK国際放送局の新番組「Mapping Kyoto Streets」の台本監修を務めます。これから打ち合わせ等のために電車に乗る時間が長いですが、京都へ行ける、京都についてより深く勉強できる機会が増えて嬉しいです。友人や家族をはじめ視聴者の皆さんが楽しく視るためにナレーション等の表現について悩んだりします。そして出演者に台本を読んでもらうのを緊張します。人によって「緊張感」イコール「ストレス」ですが、私にとって緊張が面白くて良いことです。目の前にある仕事に対して感心を持っている証拠だと思います。

With the new financial year comes a new project. This project is the NHK World program, Mapping Kyoto Streets. As script advisor, I will be spending more time on the train to Kyoto for meetings and filming, but I’m looking forward to the opportunity to visit Kyoto more often and discover more about this ancient city. When I imagine my friends, colleagues and family watching this show, I start to worry if the narration is interesting enough. I also get nervous about the host and the narrator reading the translations I’ve prepared. Most people look at nervousness as stress, but nervousness, for me, is interesting. It is proof that I care about the work at hand.

The Japanese version first appeared in the April 2012 issue of the goodspeed monthly newsletter. 日本語バージョンはグッドスピードレター2012年4月号に掲載されました。 Mapping Kyoto Streets premieres on April 12 and airs once a fortnight. You can watch the show online, in real time. Check the web site for screening times. Pictured, here, is Randy Channell Soei – the host of Episode 1: Sanjo-dori – rehearsing his lines.

Counting My Blessings - 常に感謝を心に

同業者や異業種の懇親会に参加する内に、友達や仕事仲間、世間が広がります。その時は将来どんな事になるか想像できません。goodspeedとの出会いもその一つ。 楽しい仕事を一緒にしてきたからこそ、先月の旅番組、 CNNGoの現地コーディネートの急な話がきた時、きっと やり遂げられると思いました。短期間でゲスト選定やス ケジュール調整、ロケハン...皆様のお陰でいい仕事がで きました。常に周りに感謝していますが、今回は特に感 謝しています。ありがとうございました! この取材の模様は今月中旬放送される予定です。 お楽しみに!

I attend many professional and business networking events. Over time, I make new friends and business partners, and my network grows. When we meet, neither of us knows what the future holds. Meeting Daisuke at goodspeed was no different. We have worked on some interesting projects together since we met, so when I was contacted to be fixer for the CNN travel program, CNNGo, I did not hesitate to bring Daisuke on board. In the very brief time leading up to the shoot, we searched for guests to appear on the show, slapped together a filming schedule, went location scouting,... Thanks to everyone's cooperation, we got the job done. I always count my blessings, but this time I cannot express how grateful I am for everyone's support. Thank you! I hope readers catch the finished product on CNN, this month.

The Japanese version first appeared in the March 2012 issue of the goodspeed monthly newsletter. 日本語バージョンはグッドスピードレター2012年3月号に掲載されました。 CNN International will first air CNNGo Rebuilding Japan! Rediscovering the Beauty of Japan (Kyoto/Osaka) on March 14 and repeat it in the following weeks. After its premiere, it will be available for viewing on the CNNGo web site. 本番組は3月14日から放送されます。その後、CNNGoホームページでご覧ください。